Being a Waterman is about mastering all ocean conditions
Building SE swell, buoys 4ft at 5sec, winds SE 15-20. I chose to paddle my JM race mal because the surf wasn't quite lining up yet to stand up, and my goal this winter is to prone paddle once a week.
My goal for this session was part surf, part training session. The conditions would have been great for just upwind downwind or a surf session but I decided to combine them both for an all around session. I decided to watch my watch and paddle into the wind for 2 mins, stop and rest for 30-45 then put effort in bumps to try and connect them into the surf zone. Properly timing bumps into a wave is something you have to work on, but today was a day it came easily. After surfing in, I would hammer the out thru the surf then into a 2 minute upwind.
A lot of people ask how I continue to do well year after year and today is a great example why. Most people would look outside, see wind and rain and call it a day. It's warm out, and the ocean is a beautiful green color, get amped on it and get out there. Being a waterman is about mastering all ocean conditions on all types of craft, and today was no different to me then two days ago when it was 3-4ft, offshore and sunny out. Its all fun and games.